STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

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nigel
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#16 Post by nigel » Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:24 am

Good to see you back mate a question re drilling glass I’ve found with the drill in reverse with medium pressure works bust to not crack the gelcoat is this your method ? & what type of drill head would you use.

Nigel
ImageImage

Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
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Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
Kayaks: Stealth Profisha 525

Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#17 Post by Jamie D » Fri Jul 20, 2018 9:54 pm

nigel wrote:Good to see you back mate a question re drilling glass I’ve found with the drill in reverse with medium pressure works bust to not crack the gelcoat is this your method ? & what type of drill head would you use.

Nigel
I haven’t drilled into this kayak yet Nigel , in the past I’ve never really worried about the details just picked a drill bit and go , has always been okay

Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
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Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#18 Post by Jamie D » Fri Jul 20, 2018 9:56 pm

NorthSIKer wrote:Image now of what I mean.
Paddle.png
Good idea , I like it

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nobrandbali
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#19 Post by nobrandbali » Tue Jul 24, 2018 10:35 am

welcome back bradda, hopefully will paddle soon next years

Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#20 Post by Jamie D » Tue Jul 24, 2018 5:31 pm

nobrandbali wrote:welcome back bradda, hopefully will paddle soon next years
For sure , always remember your positive vibes and south west rocks reports

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XDCammer
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#21 Post by XDCammer » Thu Jul 26, 2018 9:04 pm

Lovely new yak Jamie!

Welcome back mate, you have been missed. :cool:

BobbyB.
Time spent on reconnaissance is time never wasted.

Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#22 Post by Jamie D » Thu Jul 26, 2018 9:13 pm

XDCammer wrote:Lovely new yak Jamie!

Welcome back mate, you have been missed. :cool:

BobbyB.
Thankyou Bobby , it’s good to see a name I recognise from the old days feels like a hundred years ago

Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:35 pm
Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#23 Post by Jamie D » Sun Aug 05, 2018 1:43 pm

I'D LIKE TO REITIERATE AGAIN AND AGAIN , THIS IS ONLY THE WAY I INSTALL A SOUNDER ON A STEALTH NOT THE CORRECT WAY BEGINNERS OR ANYBODY LOOKING FOR A METHOD COULD LOOK AT THE FOLLOWING AS A WAY TO DO IT , IF YOUR EXPERIENCED AND HAVE A BETTER WAY , DO THAT . THIS IS ONLY A GUIDE FOR SOMEONE MAYBE DOING THEIR FIRST STEALTH LOOKING FOR SOME IDEAS.
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After receiving the Custom , 5 inch sounder lid from kayak specialists they had kindly manufactured for me , I realised that the Sounder I had chosen ( Humminbird Helix 5 Di Gps) only had about 5 mm of flat area around the outside of the back of the sounder head , and this flat area is what will actually contact with and stick to the hatch lid using Sika 291 marine glue and sealant ,so the hole that I cut in the lid had to be precise to the millmeter . To do this I made a Pattern , exactly like a dress makers pattern , that I could stick onto the hatch lid and get the outline precise down to the mm of the area I was going to insert the headunit into , I marked the area out using white marker pen .
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I then cut this area out using my trusty cutting disc and smoothed out the edges , with a rasp and some sandpaper .
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The Sounder head fit perfectly
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I then put the Navionics card , into the slot on the side of the headunit, and Sika flex'd it up in place so its there permanently or until I pick the sika out to remove it for some reason , I simply don't trust the " Waterproof " SD card slot , sika will goop its way into every nook and cranny of the opening and it's hard and rubbery dry , I then put Sika around the edge of the back of the sounder head and put it aside to dry , it's not pretty but they last .
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The most important thing about fit out for me is functionality and strength , the sika application on the inside of the custom lid is rough and ugly but it's strong and waterproof , you have to remember , your kayak is going to get rolled in the shore break at times and end up scraping along the sand upside down your fitting of the equipment has to be strong enough that the sounder won't tear off the lid and waterproof enough that when you come off and water is slopping around inside the hatch it won't wreck your electronics ability to work
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Last edited by Jamie D on Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
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Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
Kayaks: Stealth Profisha 525

Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#24 Post by Jamie D » Sun Aug 05, 2018 2:02 pm

I mount the transducer foot in the outer skin of the kayak between the fish hatch and the outer hull because this is where there is only one layer of glass between the transducer and the Ocean and you get the best sounder readings , mount it in other areas like inside the fish hatch and there can be a gap between the bottom of the fish hatch and the outer skin of the boat and you cannot get the signal coming from the transducer to resolve into a good image in the sounder head.
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I use 125mm waterproof access hatches to install my transducers , because I have big hands , and I can hardly get them through a 100mm hatch , which is what a lot of guys use , I tape the hatch ring onto the side of the fish hatch , using duck tape then I mark it with a niko pen so I know what area I need to cut out
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I use a dremel cutting bit in my drill to cut out the hole for the access hatch because I'm not buying a dremel to cut one hole and spending 50-100 bucks when a dremel bit is 3 dollars basically lol.
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After I cut the area for the hatch out , I smooth off any rough edges with a mix of a rasp and some sandpaper . I also rough up the outside of the hole for the hatch about 10mm out so the sika sticks better to the wall of the fish hatch , this means there will be some staining of the inside of the fish hatch where the sika soaks into the area you've sanded but the hatch will be stuck tight and that's all I'm after.
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I then apply the sika to the back of the access hatch flange so that it can be fixed in place , other guys put backing plates on the back of the flange inside the outer skin for strength , but I've never bothered and I've never had any issues at all , the sika is so strong when dry I've never used screws just the strength of the sika holds the hatch in place
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After I install the outer ring I screw the hatch lid in place this is very important as if you let the sika dry without the lid in the ring can distort and it means you struggle to be able to screw the lid in because the ring has bowed slightly out of shape , then I put a painters roller sleeve hard up against the hatch lid to put pressure on the lid whilst it drys
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Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:35 pm
Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
Kayaks: Stealth Profisha 525

Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#25 Post by Jamie D » Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:29 pm

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A 13 to 18 mm reducible waterproof gland is required to pass the transducer cable through from the inside of the hull , through into the fish hatch so that it can be fed up to the lid and plugged into the back of the head unit
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Simply placed the gland on the 125 mm access hatch lid And mark out area to be cut to fit the waterproof gland
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Simply use a circular key hole cutter to cut out the required hole for the gland to sit in
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Once the whole is cut Simply smooth off the edges with a piece of sandpaper
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Then fit gland and to access hatch
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A quick check make sure the transducer plug will actually pass through the gland
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Then it’s simply a matter of mounting the transducer inside the space between the fish hatch and the outer hull
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Once the transducer is mounted the cable will simply feed out into the hatch from the cavity where the transducer is mounted
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Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
Posts: 5823
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:35 pm
Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
Kayaks: Stealth Profisha 525

Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#26 Post by Jamie D » Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:34 pm

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Time to glue in the transducer in and the primary concern with debris on the bottom of the hull where I intended to mount the transducer is not getting good adherence to the surface or getting poor quality signals from the foot .I could not get the vacuum hose in there No matter how hard I tried to bend it in the access port on the right angle
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So I bashed the end of one of my paintbrushes so that I could get it inside the cavity and dust the transducer mount area sufficiently
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The end result of dusting with the brush was that I had a clean surface for the transducer to adhere to
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I don’t Muck Around when it comes to the amount of sika that I apply to the transducer foot
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Jamie Downey
25 mins ·
I always squelch the transducer down into the sika back and forth back and forth so that any air pockets in the sika Get worked out of the glued area and there is no interference between the transducer signal and the ocean bottom . I also like to make sure the transducer is parallel to the side of the fish box so that the beam curtain is on an angle I like
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Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
Posts: 5823
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:35 pm
Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
Kayaks: Stealth Profisha 525

Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#27 Post by Jamie D » Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:24 pm

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Mounting and leaving the sounder permanently In the kayak requires certain techniques I feel confident to talk about these because I have the experience of having done it before and having had work. Once the cables are in the back of the head unit they never come out ever, and I put the marine sealant in healthy amounts all around the back of the plugs I will also put cable mounts in place all along the boat from the head unit All the way back along the side of the fish box to take them out of the way and to take the stress and strain off the back of the head unit with the plugs are connected.
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There has been a lot of talk about these batteries and how if the waterproof gland that connects the power to the battery gets wet upon charging can cause fire. There has also been talking about how there is no seal around the internal componentry of the battery. I’ve decided to take this feedback from my fellow kayakers on board and circumvent the problem by simply housing the battery in a waterproof container with a waterproof gland sidestepping these potential issues
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First step is to install the gland at the front of the housing I did this by marking it out with a pen
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Then use a soldering iron to cut out the circle
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Smooth off with sandpaper
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Insert a waterproof gland
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And the battery is completely removable from the whole set up
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Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
Posts: 5823
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:35 pm
Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
Kayaks: Stealth Profisha 525

Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#28 Post by Jamie D » Tue Aug 14, 2018 9:18 pm

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Last couple of little bits of the install at to run the cabling to the battery box and to store the extra cabling for the transducer in the access hatch on the side wall of the kayak . Here you can see I simply run the cabling tied together to keep it tidy with duct tape Along the underneath edge of the fish hatch lip
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Then I take all the extra cabling from the transducer that’s left over because obviously you don’t have the same amount of cable required on a kayak as you do on a boat and I loop it up and to keep it all bound up together I use duct tape Good old-fashioned dirty duct tape
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Now the weight of the loop of transducer cabling is something that you need to be concerned about if you come off in the surf and your getting tumbled around . There is the potentiality which I have had happen before for the weight of the cabling once tumbling around in the surf to pull on the transducer mount And dislodge it from the sika therefore Stuffing everything up . The solution I chose in the last boat was messy , so this time around I simply thought to myself I’m gonna cut a piece of foam that fits tight into the side cavity and wedge the cabling underneath it so it can’t move
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Here you can see the foam sitting in place through the access hatch
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And I literally simply wedged the cabling under the foam so it’s not going anywhere if I come off in the surf
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Then replaced the access hatch tightened up the Glen seal and Done
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To complete the battery connections the FPV batteries come with cable connectors and simply connect the right colour to the right colour
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And I sit the battery box Under the seat with a piece of foam sitting on top of that to stop it moving around during surfing launches And also to mop up any water that gets into the hatch if I’m capsised or during heavy surf launch
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Jamie D
2015 Saltwater Angler of the Year
Posts: 5823
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:35 pm
Local Fishing Region: South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales
Kayaks: Stealth Profisha 525

Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#29 Post by Jamie D » Tue Aug 14, 2018 9:20 pm

That's as much as I'll be detailing on the thread I think theres some stuff that may help there see you all on the water good and happy fishing

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Hulla
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Re: STEALTH PROFISHA 525 - Fitting out my fourth Stealth

#30 Post by Hulla » Wed Aug 15, 2018 12:29 pm

Thanks for the input Jamie, always interesting and helpful. Keep up the good work and I will try to add something myself sometime.

Dean

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