Bream Tactics

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Bream Tactics

#1 Post by The KFDU Team » Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:46 pm

Hi everyone.

This thread has been designed to assist members new and old who wish to target Bream and want to refine their techniques or learn how to target Bream for the first time.

This initial post will give you a general description of the type of fishing gear used to target Bream without referring to brand.

The following posts have been given by the moderators and a number of other members to give the specific fishing gear that they use to target Bream and the specific techniques they employ.

We have also locked the thread to keep the information easy to find without having to filter through question and answers and the regular banter that occurs on most threads. If you have any direct questions feel free to ask any of the members that have been asked to post on this thread.

General Gear Specifications





Related Topics

Catching Bream on HB's and surface lures by T-curve:


The KFDU team


Re: Bream Tactics

#2 Post by brez » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:22 pm

Rod/s: Pflueger Trion 2-4 kg 6’6” , Shimano t-curve t series 2-4 kg 7’( hb’s) and Daiwa Sol 2-6lb ( finesse sp’s)

Reel/s: Daiwa Sol 2000, Daiwa Luvias da 2000 and Daiwa Tierra 1500

Line/s: Bass hard 4lb , Power Pro braid 8lb & Power Pro braid 5lb

Leader/s: 4lb Berkley Vanish fc , 8lb sunline fc , 6lb Berkley vanish fc

Favourite Lures (SP or HB): Berkley Gulp 4” turtleback worms & swimming mullet 3” (sp) Atomic crank 38 deep (hb), Ecogear sx40lc(hb) blades for me are a work in progress

Knots (Leader to Main): Double uni

Knots (Leader to Lure): Leftys loop knot for hb’s and surface lures

Retrieval Technique: Hopping retrieve with lots of long pauses for the sp’s , shorter hops in colder months and longer pauses . jig head weights from 1/32 up to 1/8 oz depending on depth and flow for hb’s I like to crank the handle 3-4 times then pause , twitch and crank again.

Drag: The more open the water the lighter the drag , the heavier the structure the tighter the drag . ideally drag set to 1/3 breaking strain of the line

Targeted Structure: Rockwalls , drop-offs , submerged timber , steep banks and open water where schools of fish identified with sounder . I like to start casting at the front of the snag then work my way in . this has the advantage of if you hook a fish at the front the others are not disturbed as you try to extract it , whereas if you hook the fish at the back on the first cast it can spook the rest . the key to finesse sp fishing is to watch the line like a hawk for any unusual movement

Time of Tide: (NA if freshwater): Systems with mangroves I prefer to fish on the falling tide , in other estuaries I like to fish into a rising tide

Time of Day: Early winter mornings are my favourite , low light periods . if its cold and overcast or raining steadily even better

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Re: Bream Tactics

#3 Post by T-curve » Wed Jul 27, 2011 10:57 pm

Here is a slightly updated version from the original link from the lockbox i done some time ago.

Rod/s: (Berkley protactic (6'10) 2-4kg), (Shimano T-curve Flight (6'6) 1-4kg), (Pflueger Supreme (7'1) 2-4kg).

Reel/s: (Shimano Stradic 1000 Ci4), (Daiwa Certate finesse custom 2004), (Shimano Sustain FE 2500).

Line/s: (Berkley Fireline Crystal 4lb), (Berkely nanofil 2lb), (Daiwa Sensor 8lb).

Leader/s: (Sunline FC Rock from 2lb - 8lb depending on situation), Also Sunline Siglon FC and Yamatoyo
Fighter Pro mono Line for surface fishing.

Favourite HB Lures: (Atomic hardz crank), (Jackall chubbies), (Smith Camions), (Zipbaits tiny and khamsins), (Ecogear SX series) and (Berkley 3B fatdogs).

Favourite Surface lures: (Luckycraft NW pencil/Sammy), (Ecogear PX 45/55), (Zipbait Skinny Pop), (Atomic K9)

Favourite Blades: (TT Ghost blades), (Ecogear VX series), (Koolabung blades)

Favourite Plastics: (Squidgy Lobbys), (Gulp 2" shrimp), (Gulp 3" minnow)

Knots (Leader to Main): Albright Knot

Knots (Leader to Lure): Leftys loop Knot

Retrieval Technique: Keeping things slow most of the time with all presentations seem to work best and pausing frequently with hard bodies twitching them on the one spot to get there attention. Blades depending on the situation i will hop and drop over gravel beds, mud flats etc and lift and drop in the deeper sections, eg (Along Rock walls) in particular during the cooler months. Plastics similar to blades but much slower but with any presentation the key is stealth and accurate casts and lets not forget SHARP hooks. My go to hooks these days are the Decoy Y-S25's. These things are like running into barbed wire !!

Drag: Can be anywhere from very very light to locked up depending on surroundings. I tend to use my little certate with 2lb braid and leader in very clear water where the fish are a bit spooky and the smooth little drag allows me to cast with confidence with the light line but i only use it over mudflats, gravels beds or anywhere they are not holding on any heavy structure. Ill go for my heavier outfit if fishing snag laden areas or oyster racks etc where ill increase the drag to suit the surrounds.

Targeted Structure: Gees where don't bream live, they certainly like refuge so look for the likely areas such as rockwalls, wharfs/jetties, moored boats, bridges, rockbars, weedbeds, mudflats, gravel beds, oyster racks and places where over hanging vegetation provide shade and food. (Once again approach with caution and make those casts accurate).

Time of Tide: (NA if freshwater): An hour each side always works well, but a rising tide over those shallower areas are certainly the best allowing the fish to move up and feed.

Time of Day: Low light periods are the best or cloudy days and shaded areas throughout the day as well but i have also found that systems can differ from each other quite a bit such as say river systems to lakes. And lets not forget that they be in certain areas throughout the day due to tides and food source.

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Re: Bream Tactics

#4 Post by arpie » Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:43 pm

Bream Tactics – (Wallis Lake)

Rod/s: Starlostix Pro Tournament lite Spin7ft, Lox 1-3kg 7ft 2", T-Curve 1-3kg

Reel/s: 1000s – Shakespeare Catera, Shimano Stradic & sienna

Line/s: 4 & 6lb Berkley Fireline Crystal

Leader/s: 6, 8, 10lb Sunline Rock Hard (the closer to racks, use heavier leader!)

Favourite Lures (SP or HB): Sammy 65 Ghost Minnow, Gulp 3” grub camo, Gulp 2" shrimp

Knots (Leader to Main): Albright
or Slim Beauty
Knots (Leader to Lure): uni knot left open to form a loop

Retrieval Technique: With both lures, always aim your cast at SOMETHING – be it structure for the best results (poles, washboards, sand patches in weed beds, edges of weed beds etc.) I really start concentrating on casting Topwater lures when my hobie fins hit the sand - I use them to hold me in position whilst I am casting around me. Even in .3m, you can catch big blue nose bream
Sammy – I make sure that the wind is on my back to assist in the longest cast I can do, usually from the centre of a bay towards the edge, specially if there are mangrove roots, weed beds or broken oyster patches along the shore – then wiggle it briefly when it lands. Then I let it sit until the ripples fade, then commence ‘walking’ the dog with pauses every 3-4 winds. To ‘walk the dog’, I point the rod at the water, wind in any loose line & then do ‘reasonably crisp’ Half Turns of the reel handle. This makes the top of the rod ‘quiver’, which imparts the action to the lure. Continue the ½ turns, as the lure goes left, right, left right, pause. etc Watch the lure like a hawk – watch the WAVES around the lure. If the shape of the wave changes when you KNOW you haven’t moved the lure, it is most likely a fish stalking the lure. When the fish tries to suck the lure in, STOP the retrieve & allow the fish to suck the lure in. Only set the hook after you feel the actual weight of the fish on your line. Constant concentration is required. If that fish doesn’t take the lure after a couple of casts, move to another spot & after 1/2hr or so, try that spot again.

Also Check out For more in depth info on my Top water Retrieve.

Gulp 3" grub - camo & 2" shrimp - most colours – using a 1/32th jig head, cast towards lease poles, washboards or along the actual racks, as close to the structure as possible. Allow the lure to gently waft thru the current & watch the line like a hawk – if there is a ‘twitch’ that YOU haven’t done, STRIKE & strike hard! Use heavier leaders. Have your drag done up to the max & just try to skull drag the bream away from any poles or edge of the racks. The floating racks are safer to fish than the fixed ones, but the fixed racks usually have more fish and BIG bream – this is real nail biting stuff.
Drag: In the open bays, keep the drag fairly light – unless you know there are oyster clump or other snags that you will have to skulldrag fish from. In the leases, tighten the drag up so you can ‘only just’ pull a bit from the spool by hand (or even tighter if in really snaggy territory.) Upgrade your leader too, to allow more pressure on the fish & allow for abrasion on the structure.

Targeted Structure: Weed & mangrove lined shallow bays for Sammys – and POLES! Go the POLES! Chuck the sammy (and GULP) past any pole & twitch or walk it back towards you & eventually you WILL get good sized fish.

Casting from deeper water towards the shallows either sides of any channel will often get you good fish - cast towards the edges of the mangroves again!

Gulp – more towards washboards & poles of leases or along the edges of lease racks.
Time of Tide: I prefer fishing the top of the high tide, thru the slack & the start of the out tide – about 6hrs all up. The bigger the tide, the better – you can sneak into bays that haven’t been fished for a while – the fish should be climbing all over the newly flooded yabby beds that may only have had an inch or 2 of water over them previously. King Tides (bigger than normal) happen at Easter & Xmas and mid year.

Time of Day: I fish by tide rather than time – tho I must admit, I prefer fishing during the week, as it gets pretty hectic on Wallis Lake most weekends.
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