"Yakking Tips" from Rangi Rocks

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Rangi Rocks
KFDU Angler
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:55 pm
Local Fishing Region: Melbourne

"Yakking Tips" from Rangi Rocks

#1 Post by Rangi Rocks » Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:27 pm

Advice from a Kiwi Yakker

Don't use the anchor unless you need to. Nailing yourself to the seabed removes a lot of the Yak advantage

Use the 'clicker' on the reel drag. Use it when while trolling, just enough so you get the occasional click as you paddle. The reel will sing out on a strike. Turn the clicker off when winding, saves wear and is less noise pollution.

Only the top 100m of line needs to be good quality for yak fishing, the backing line can be almost anything.
Save money and have plenty of good line to respool the working section when needed

Fill your reel to about 3mm from the edge, full reels cast better, both conventional and spinning.

When you are through fishing, tighten the reel drag, spray your reels lightly with fresh water (Use of one of the many salt removal solutions is recommended), dry them with a cloth, then wipe with a cloth squirted with INOX or TackleGuard lubricant (Don't hose the reel with CRC or WD40), then loosen off the drag. This will take the pressure off the drag washers, and give them a longer life.
Your reel needs very little oil. Loading your reel with oil can make the drag system less effective.

Learn how to strip and clean your reel. Most are fairly simple and you need to have a clean and regrease at least monthly (depending on usage & certainly asap after a dunking)

Be visible. I wear a dayglow shirt and hat, and a flag in peak season. Use plenty of light at night. Never assume a boat has seen you. If a boat is bearing down on you, turn side on to present a larger profile - Keep paddling, it will only help. There will unfortunately be the occasional plonker who plays “chicken” with you. Keep your wits and record as much detail as you can then report them to Maritime Safety (MSA)

Balance your rod & reel, you don't need a 4/0 reel on a light rod. And unless targeting really big fish 10 kg is ample - I occasionally fish with a TLD25 and 24kg, but that's a different story

Once you have adjusted your drag appropriately, leave it alone! There is no way to know how much you are tightening when you are fighting a fish. If you're being “spooled” you have nothing to lose. Try and always use the yak to advantage, keep the rod low and pointing towards the bow to turn the yak to face the fish and allow it to pull you along.
The secret is to wind the yak to the fish, not the other way round.

Lead: use the amount you must, no more no less. When the action is on the surface don't plunge to the bottom. With surface fish exploding on the surface, opt for Fly Lining, no lead at all. I fish with the hook tied straight to the mainline, unless using a heavier trace for Kingies etc.

When fishing for squid - KEEP IT IN THE WATER AND OUT OF THE YAK UNTIL IT HAS DUMPED ITS INK!!! This I learnt from experience!

Lures: variety is the spice of life, if they are there (on the sounder) but not taking, change action, size, shape, colour. Remember that predator fish have trapdoor mouths that can inhale a surprisingly large bait or lure.

Keep your yak clean - if using berley, don't associate it with the yak. Use a dropper pot on a breakable line well below you in case something BIG cruises past.

When casting poppers to Kingfish or Kahawai, wind as fast as you can. You will NEVER outwind a kingfish!

Heavier lures run deeper, you need a variety to meet conditions. You must fish where the fish are. Run really deep when trolling soft lures around workups with gannets around, these daft birds will hit your lure at depths of up to 10m. And a lapful of stroppy gannet is very amusing...for anyone watching.

Be wary of opening the main hatches at sea. If you need to, be conscious of sea conditions during the operation

Swivels: I generally don’t use them for surface fishing except in some very special situations. Such as using with a heavy trace as above. Some lure makers suggest you use a swivel with their product. They probably have a reason for it.

Watch out for the 'Horizon Bug' Fish shallow, fish close (with a few exceptions)

If you need a bottom lead to get the rig down to the fish, use a jig instead - double your fishing opportunities

Guides wear out. Check them periodically, especially the tip top. A worn guide may cut your line under war conditions. Drag some old pantyhose through the rings - that will show up any cracks or roughness

The rod top ring should always be high quality. Good tips are very hard and won't cut.

Watch for the birds working, they fish better than we do.

Watch also for slicks or bubbles (not spindrift foam) on the surface - usually indicates a massacre going on down below - get the big rod out...

Fish the aerated waters around reefs and rocks, but watch the waves.

Skippies are excellent food fish, the secret is to bleed them at once, clean as soon as possible, keep cool and use ice as soon as it's available. Sitting in the sun all day will guarantee you an unpalatable meal. These fish in particular don't deserve the bad rap they get.

If it doesn't float, tie it on or attach a float to it. Only one thing is ESSENTIAL to be tethered: Paddle.

When landing in surf/waves, safety the point and untie the gaff (but leave in the clips) If you do end up in the washing machine you want the gaff as far away from you as possible

Have and use a drybag for cellphone, wallet, camera - $250 spent on a waterproof handheld VHF is worthwhile if venturing outside the paddling pool

Don't leave the yak strapped down hard on the roofrack in hot sun, slacken the lines. If it does buckle, support the ends and fill with warm water or leave in the sun to pop back (Second hand info never had to do it myself)

Troll while you paddle - I frequently have a kahawai (either for the smoker or fresh bait) within 200m of launch point on my way out. The lure usually only needs to be 10 -15m behind you (No motor noise to spook the fish)

The best fishing is usually at first light to about 1000Hrs, and immediately before a big storm ( and immediately after but ocean water only. Can probably forget anything near a harbour if the water is really soupy)

Keep it simple. There isn't a lot of space on a Yak, pre-everything: pre-tie traces, pre-cut bait etc


Leave an intention sheet with someone onshore, not in the car and stick to it (Or TXT/phone your shore contact and advise of any changes)


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